The

Journal
by Gianluca Isaia

24 SEP 2015

I've found my
love in Capri
by Gianluca Isaia
Capri in Fall? It's the best, without a doubt.
It's as though I'm revealing something obvious: it's no secret. If the weather stays nice, as it usually does, the island is a genuine paradise in Fall. Once the clamor and exaggerations of the torrid summer have gone, the breeze gradually picks up, cooling the air and instantly sweeping away humidity and pests.

The sky is clear blue with puffy white clouds and the sunsets are perpetually in Technicolor. It's like being at the movies. The sea once again finds its Caribbean colors and the emerald transparency of the early season. Swimming in it gives you the sense of being a part of a legend, a living yet ancient spirit. The sun-kissed bathing establishments are half-empty but never melancholic and people speak in hushed whispers.

The Piazzetta is magnificent, returning to its intimate, quiet dimension. In late afternoon, it is immersed in a burnished, golden light. It is the moment of true connoisseurs and a happy few that own a house on this magical rock and want to finally enjoy it.
Capri's September habitués – like Jackie O, who used to arrive at the end of the month or even in October to escape the crowds, going to Villa Jovis and shopping for local goods – include Mariah Carey, Jeremy Irons, and Steven Spielberg. Last year U.S. Vice President Joe Biden and family were seen having a "pizza all'acqua" at Aurora's.

The drier, cooler climate means that you can take long walks, amidst the vegetable patches and fragrant gardens overflowing with bougainvillea, from Migliera to Anacapri, for example, stopping for a bite to eat at Gelsomina's and then descending to the Faro. Or you can let yourself be lulled by the gentle movement of a small boat near the island's rocky formations, so similar to the Dolomites, sailing to Recommone or Nerano for a sublime dish of pasta with zucchini.

The atmosphere is much more relaxed, even for Capri natives, who once again feel they are the masters of their homes. No more waiting lists to book the trendiest restaurants, and no more useless noise. If there's a full moon, the evening destination must be Le Grottelle, a restaurant with a breathtaking panorama which couldn't be more romantic.
"Summer is ending" sang the Righiera pop band many years ago. But it doesn't matter because if you want, at least during weekends, you can extend summer into fall.

I wanted the Isaia boutique on Via Fuorlovado to be a salon and meeting place where new friends could gather around the piano painted a bright coral red, our signature color, and where sometimes even the great Peppino di Capri drops in to play and sing an impromptu song. A glass of wine or a cocktail is a custom here. Some guests even develop a liking for it, such as a famous Hollywood film producer who spent at least five evenings out of seven here after dinner during his week-long stay on the Island of the Sirens.

Who was it? I can't tell you.